Sport & Speed Onsite
Rope Onsite Format:
During an onsite competition the climbers will not get to watch anyone else attempt the routes they are trying. The climbers start off in iso. Iso is an area where they can warm up for the routes they are going to compete on, but not see them. Before climbing starts all of the climbers go out together to preview the routes. During the preview period the climbers may talk about the routes with each other. There will be a total of three routes with three minutes of preview time per route. After the preview all of the climbers will be escorted back into iso. Then the first climber in the running order will be called out. There is a universal clock for all of the climbers. The rotation for the clock is 3 minutes of climbing time or rest time followed by a 30 second transition time. The climbers will spend one rest session sitting in front of their climb facing away from it before they attempt the climb. After the transition they will have three minutes to attempt the climb then they will have 30 seconds to transition to the next climb. This will repeat two more times. After all of the climbers have finished the onsite routes Speed climbing will begin.
Rope Onsite Rules:
1. All competitors must be belayed and scored by an official JCCA judge.
2. To start a route the climber must establish control on the start hold or holds, if there are two, marked by the start tag or the start tag and a tape V on the second start hold. Control of the start hold(s) is defined by having both hands on the start of the route and having both feet off the ground. The climber is not permitted to jump off the ground in an attempt to start.
3. A handhold shall be considered “controlled’ when a competitor has made use of the handhold either while in, or to achieve, a stable or controlled position that in general will be evidenced by: a) Holding a handhold for two (2) seconds or more; or b) Controlling the momentum of a climbing movement
4. Climbers may not use the rope to help them ascend. This includes grabbing the rope, sitting back in the harness to rest, and swinging on the rope.
5. In order to complete a route, the climber must show control of the finish hold with both hands. The finishing hold will be marked by a tape box around the hold.
6. While a climber is on the wall it is not permitted to yell out the beta. Beta is any information that will help a climber proceed further up the wall.
7. Climbers only receive one attempt per route to ascend as high as possible.
Speed Climbing Rules:
1. The climber must have at least one hand on the designated starting hold. The other hand may be reaching towards the next hold or matched on the start. The climber must have one foot on the ground and one foot on a foothold to start the route.
2. Any feet may be used while speed climbing, however the hands must follow the designated route.
3. A false start will be called if the climber pulls their foot off of the ground before the judge says go. No more then one false start is allowed per speed run. If a climber reaches two false starts they will be given a fault for that run.
4. Each climber will complete a total of two speed runs.
5. If a climber fails to hit the designated finish they will receive a fault for that run.
6. The fastest time from the two runs will be used as the climbers score.